Teseo Naxos is a shoe designing software made by Teseo Italy. Here in the same platform, we can make digitizing, pattern making, grading, plotting, 3d Visualization, costing and product specification sheet. Here in this Naxos tutorial, we will discuss the process of Pattern Making. The digitization part has already been discussed in the previous tutorials. Other parts will be discussed in follow on tutorials. We also discussed the process to modify digitizing entities.
Before going to the pattern making, we need to know the process to insert and modify derived entities like parallel, variable parallel, underlay, folding, etc. All these derived entities are modified forms of parallel entities. So let’s see the use of different derived entities.
If you click in the entity configuration > parallel, then all related entity of parallel is shown. From the list, we can adjust the distance and color of the entity, or make it fixed distance or variable distance.
How to insert a parallel with a previously set constant value:
1. Click on underlay or folding icon ;
2. Select the line from which the parallel must derive and move the cursor, then select the inserting side ;
3. Confirm with a click on the selection key.
To insert a parallel on both sides, position the cursor in the area of the original line and confirm with a click.
4. To insert other parallels repeat from point 2, otherwise to quit the function, click the special key.
How to insert a parallel/ variable Parallel
In case of parallel command there is no constant distance, so in the time time of execution the command, computer will ask distance for each point.
- If we give the same distance to both terminal ends then it is fixed parallel.
- Elseif we give different distances for different points, then it will be variable parallel.
1. Click on parallel;
2. Select the line from which the parallel must derive;
3. With a click indicate the point on the line, then fill in the “Input” dialog box, the distance value, expressed in mm, which the parallel must keep on that point from the original line . Click “OK”;
[for variable parallel: With a click indicate the second point and from the dialog box “Input”, insert the distance value. Click “OK”; With a click indicate the third point and from the dialog box “Input”, insert the distance value. Click “OK” ]
- During the insertion it is possible to cancel the function with Esc;
- A variable distance parallel can be transformed into a constant distance parallel. Click twice on the parallel, click the menu key and select Make constant the distance.
- In the next tutorials, we will discuss the Grading Process
- During the modification, by holding down the Shift key, it is possible to move the point by 0,5 mm at every mouse shift.
- To insert a knot: click the parallel twice, then with one more click indicate the point where the knot should be inserted. On the “Input” dialog box enter the distance that the knot must keep from the original entity.
- To delete a knot: click the parallel twice, position the cursor on the knot to remove, click the menu key and select Delete.
- While editing a parallel its side can be reversed: click the parallel twice, click the menu key and select Reverse side.
This function allows to move the ends of the entity without altering its definition.
This means that the entity always remains the same but the section displayed can be shortened keeping only the required part. In the same way it can be lengthened to its maximum extent.
- Select the entity with a click on the required end; One end or the other will be considered according to the position of the click.
- Click the menu key and select Ends ;
- Move the cursor towards the required position and confirm with a click ;
- To modify other entities repeat from point 1;
- To quit the function, click the special key.
How to extract a pattern
Important points to remember before extracting/pattern making:
In order to extract the pieces, the model pattern should be complete with all elements like style lines, underlays, folding allowances, symmetry axes, holes, etc. to avoid interrupting the function and inserting the missing elements.
To avoid errors during the line selection, use the layers (refer to the paragraph “Use of the layers”) to hide those entities which can disturb you while extracting the required pieces. I.e.: it useful to hide linings, puddings and reinforcing while extracting the upper pieces.
1. Select the menu function 2D/Extract or click on Extract ;
2. The “Extraction” window appears showing the extracted entities: it can be updated in real time.
Follow the instructions appearing on the status toolbar (at the bottom left) where the procedure for the current extraction is being described step by step. See picture below
The selection of the perimeter lines must follow “the way you would cut with scissors”; this means that the order in which the lines are chosen must observe the same direction in a sequence.
The lines may even not be crossing each other. If the function “Lines Lengthening” is enabled on so that the patterns are automatically lengthened and closed. See picture below
Making Pattern of Symmetric / Asymmetrical piece
After clicking extract command, click the reference line first, then follow instructions as per given in lower left corner of the software, See Pic. 11
After the extraction of all the pieces, it is recommended to complete the pieces before grading in sizes. In the next tutorial, I will discuss the grading procedure.
Reference: Teseo Naxos lessons .. TESEO spa 2011
Please share your feedback and suggestions. In case if you have any queries about any topic of Footwear and Leather Goods, post it in the comment section. And if you like this topic you may share it on facebook, twitter or any social site. Thank you